you won't git pick
a little rusty, dusty, home for some spiders
A couple of letters I may have well have just put up here and saved sending to the Times Magazine, but I have a hard time leaving stuff like this unchallenged, even if I'm just talking to myself for now.
Well the Guatemalan elections are just a couple of weeks away and it looks like there is real danger of Otto "ex"-military "Hard Hand of Justice" Perez Molina winning by the skin of his teeth:
Well looks like I jumped ship on this blog for not too far off a year, and here I'm back with a new project, a whole new time and place so that it feels a little like letting someone see a picture of you in middle school to leave around all those old posts, but hey, onward into the blog of the future. yeah, right! The location has changed, going to be in Philly again at the start of the month, across town, across the Schukyll, in the West just out past where the train goes so that it is a kind of precarious ten blocks to the last major SEPTA outpost, precarious in the sense that it matters which roads you pick to go down on the way. Our neighbors are good, a guy with an artificial heart and occaisional seizures who spends a lot of time on his porch, keeping an eye out and watching the street change over many years, and a couple and their little boy up from the islands, working at the Marriot mostly nights and playing a checkers relative called Draft (or maybe just Draf?) on the porch in the day while we sip peanut punch like they make in Trinidad.
It's the night after Christmas and all through the house, not a creature is stirring, not even a mouse. Just me actually. Travelling is interesting and I've been going pretty nonstop. I still haven't been anywhere for more than a couple of days, weeks, in a long while. My flight from Guatemala landed in JFK at around 11 o'clock, clear night. The landing was normal, smooth, but since it was a plane full of Guatemalan grannies coming to the United States to see their families, we were all gripping our armrests and looking out the window, and when the plane touched down everyone sighed and then applauded. That's one thing I feel like this trip did for me, made everything fresh and exciting. Once I get back to Hanover and school, I plan to settle in for what I hope will be a cold snowy winter (afraid that climate change is not on my side) to think and write and hopefully the results will be good enough to share.
Last night in Antigua I spoke with a fascinating woman who works to find birth mothers for adoptive families who want to establish contact. She works alone, accompanied on her trips by her husband for safety. She has no agency, she doesnt use any institutional contacts, no lawyers, no social workers, nothing. She works, like everyone here does, straight from her gut. She goes to the adress of the woman that is listed on the cedula. She asks around, she gets a feeling, someone tells her that maybe they know the father of that woman and that maybe he is living in a town 30 km away. She goes and there is the mother, she is in the right place, and she intends to talk to the mother, and the husband is there, maybe she can only speak to the husband who speaks to the mother who speaks to the husband who speaks to my friend the finder. A few months ago in the highlands, twelve women had their hair cut off for giving up their children in adoption, Mayan punishment. One of these women has an eight year old son in the United States. The son wanted to know that his mother loved him. He asked for some sign from her. The finder brought pictures of the young boy to his mother in Guatemala. She told the mother that the young boy was looking for a sign from her. The mother had nothing to give. She put the photo of her son against her heart and asked that the finder take a photograph of her, and send it back to the United States where he lives with his family there. The young boy doesnt know yet that his mother was punished for sending him to the United States to live, but he knows that she loves him and maybe his parents in the States will tell him more story in the years that come. He cried and cried, but he said he felt more complete.
I went to Rabinal and I heard the story that I was expecting to hear and then a little more. The taxi driver took me to a little settlement outside of town with rows and rows of little wooden houses. We stopped on a corner and began to talk to the women in the house, a grandmother, mother and baby. They peel sunflower seeds for cash and the men work these little plots of land with corn and beans. they have a pig. hungry dogs everywhere. The people are drinking out of the river. you know that they are sick and a little hungry or feeling bad almost all the time. A man approached us. He told us about how the government surveyor had just come and measured his little plot and only given him title to half because he had only planted half. And he told us what he went through to get what little he had. He had been living down in the fertile valley but when Lukas was in power they decided to put a hydroelectric plant there. So he moved up the hill to land that wouldnt be flooded. But the government pursued him there because they told him that was private property now. Before it had always been communal. They were trying to kill him and he and his family, and some other families were hiding in the mountains there. In some parts, the government cut down all the trees on the hills so that the people couldnt hide. Now the hills are all eroding and the land doesnt produce as well. They were eating tree roots and stuff, almost dead when Lukas fell from power and Montt came in, as I understand it. And Montt was building these little houses to give people to resettle and so they fought and they got one of these little houses and they came back to living near Rabinal. But the houses dont have foundations, and so when it rained, they would have water up to your knees. What good were they? a little good. One of the weirder things about the rio negro resettlement is that there were a lot of the houses that had signs for Habitat for Humanity. I guess what happened is that they saw how the people were living, whenever they showed up probably in the 90s, and they didnt realize that the houses that they used as models are sort of evil. They modelled, I guess, more houses for the settlement after the original ones. And they came with all good will and built them. I assume that Montt didnt hire them to build the original ones. But there are definately Habitat Houses there. Very weird.